Ray of Lights

http://adventurephotonvideo.multiply.com/photos/album/7#
Tips mendapatkan ROL

Sidang Si Ali

Ice World

Petunjuk Praktis Foto Panggung

http://adjie-photography.blogspot.com/2008/07/petunjuk-praktis-foto-panggung.html
Yang blon coba foto panggung (kayak ogut) !

Tempel-Menempel

Lokasi : Daru- Tigaraksa

Mo coba nyusun-nyusun foto kayak yang gw liat di studio foto (Foto Album) ternyata susah juga, terutama kalo foto-foto yang diambil gak berkonsep... wekekekeke.....ya iya laahhh !!! tapi ya gimana, namanya juga coba-coba.. pake koleksi foto-foto lama...(blon sempet jalan-jalan lagi :D )

How to remove data in Active Directory after an unsuccessful domain controller demotion

http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb%3ben-us%3b216498
yang punya kesulitan ngapus domain controller mati yang masih ke list di domain forest...pasti pusing (kalo yang blon tau caranya) karena di delete2 gak bisa2 .. wekekeke.. ini step-step nya ! ati-ati yah.. salah2 harus isntal ulang Domain controller baru loh !

How to Make An Inexpensive Light Tent - DIY

http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent/
daripada beli mahal, mending bikin 'ndiri..... yang penting hasilnya sama

Shit Happends

Minggu 26 Oktober 2008,

waktu gw kira semua sudah OK, gw langsung puter stir, dan tiba-tiba.... ciiittttt.... brakk.... 2 orang anak pelajar SMU beserta tunggangan mereka (sepeda motor yamaha MX) nempel di bember gw... ( F!!!  ). kaki gw lemes detak jantung melemah (shock).

bermula ketika sore itu gw mau berangkat kondangan, udah jam 5 lewat, dah ngelebihin dikit dari rencana, gw berangkat dari rumah bokin, sambil prepare di mobil eh ternyata nyadar kalo undangan gak dibawa + amplop blon dinamain...mmmm.....posisi udah di luar gang lagi, terpaksa harus balik lagi untuk ngambil undangan + pulpen. gw pinggirin dulu mobil, karena lalulintasnya lumayan padet, nyalain lampu sein.... setelah nuggu agak lama baru gw liat lalulintas di belakang gw sepi, gw mulai puter stir... sambil ngeliat lawan arah, lawan arah dah OK, gw tengok lagi belakang, tinggal motor2 dan meraka udah pada mulai ngurangin kecepatan (berarti dah pada liat gw mo belok), depan OK, belakang OK, gw lanjut puter stir , baru nge- gas dikit.. tiba-tiba ada suara dari samping gw....ciiiiitttt....kresek-kresek.. bruk... mobil agak ngoyang tuh, tau-tau udah ada orang di bemper gw... mmmm..... tepat nya 2 orang anak pelajar SMU (gak pake helm) dah berkumpul bersama tunggangan meraka di bamper depan.Gw langsung mikir...pasti mereka sangka gw ngasih sein itu mau nyelip bukan mau muter atau mereka bener2 gak ngeliat arah kendaraan gw.. warga langsung pada ngumpul, gw sempet denger ibu-ibu ada yang ngomong (itu ada motor jatuh .. itu orangnya tuh!) OK, setelah 2 pelajar tadi bisa bangun dan mengamankan motor nya gw puter arah dulu, cari tempat aman, baru keluar mobil, duh kasian juga, yang bawa motor sih lecet-lecet doang, yang dibonceng ini nih, jalan pincang-pincang, sambil megangin pinggangnya, trus tiduran di pinggir jalan... (dalem ati) waduh jangan sampe kenapa-napa nih anak! gw dah siapin omelan-omelan ternyata meraka cuma diem aja, yang bawa motor malah kayaknya ketakutan, sambil bantuin temennya dia sepertinya mo langsung bawa temennya itu keluar dari tempat kejadian... gw curiga :
1. mereka gak bawa surat-surat kendaraan
2. meraka mo cepet-cepet lari dan manggil temen-temennya...

gw tanyain ke yang dibonceng " sakitnya dimana mas?" dia cuma meringis nahan sakit doang. yang bawa motor gw langsung tembak aja ..." bawa motor kenceng banget sih, masa gak liat gw dah kasih sein dari tadi, motor yang lain juga udah pada berenti" (mungkin ini psikologis umum untuk matiin omongon dan melemparkan tuduhan kesalahan pada pihak lain/ alias defense), gw balik ke mobil ngecek berapa besar kerusakan akibat tumbukan 2 benda padat tadi.. hasilnya bember lecet ujung pintu pengok. arrgggghhh !!!!! gw masih mikir yang salah gw apa mereka... sh!t..... gw balik lagi kemereka dan mereka ternyata udah siap-siap mau pergi.. sambil jalan ke motor .. mereka mungutin printilan-printilan komponen motor mereka di jalanan. gw mikir kayaknya posisi gw serba salah, gw mo bawa mereka ke dokter atau kasih uang untuk berobat ntar disangka gw yang salah... dah gw balik aja ke mobil, gw liat bokin dah pucet... gw gak banyak komen :D takutnya doi ngerasa salah, gara-gara ketinggalan undangan 'n mo ngambil pulpen aja jadi begini... :D ...

OK langsung ke hipotesa aja.... satu lagi pelajaran untuk gw bahwa gak semua hal bisa di kontrol, ada hal-hal yang di luar kemampuan kita, walaupun kita sudah menganalisa sebelumnya. jangan anggap kejadian yang terjadi pada orang lain gak bisa terjadi pada kita karena kita merasa lebih hati-hati lebih perhitungan dari orang lain. well' bros.. ketika kita berfikir semua sudah sesuai pada tempatnya, shit happends ! oleh karena itu sebelum mengerjakan sesuatu, berdo'a lah !

Big Day!

Start:	Dec 19, '08 10:00a
End:	Dec 20, '08
Location:	Tangerang-Banten

My Wedding Day ! Jangan gerogi, jangan gerogi..... ajajajajajajajajaja.... siapin contekan !

-Kita Berdua-

:D upload foto lama, jalan-jalan berdua Wito, pergi ngacir-pulang ngacir.. sampe-sampe shockbreaker belakang wito copot gak berasa !

Sang Bulan

semalem coba-coba moto, pake kamera fujifilm S7500 susah untuk dapetin fokusnya, padahal udah pake manual fokus, pembesaran maximum (F stop 46.8mm), setingan kamera dapet di F8 (aperture maksimumnya) kecepatan shutter 1/50-1/150. self timer 2 detik (supaya gak blur) :D seneng juga bisa coba-coba.

Jajan-jalan Sore

ma Nopi, jalan-jalan ke serpong, daerah danau Gading Serpong dan sekitarnya, sambil nunggu bedug magrib

Filtered

Mekarsari

Iseng-Iseng

IR Camera

Replace your hot miror !!! Infrared Conversion Instructions

Taken From : http://www.lifepixel.com/index.html

Masih penasaran cari-cari info tentang IR Filter, Arrrgggg..... akhirnya sampe ke website ini http://www.lifepixel.com/index.html, disini tempat yang menyediakan layanan konversi kamera digital biasa menjadi menjadi kamera digital dengan filter IR (Infrared) tertanam didalamnya. jadi begini sodara-sodara... Apasih IR itu ??? tau gak  loo.... Xixixixixi gini brur... gw ceritain atu-atu (sok ngarti), dari artikel-artikel yang gw baca di nginternet, mata kita itu cuma bisa nangkep cahaya dengan panjang gelombang diatara 400-600nm, nah sama halnye ama kamera digital, selidik punya selidik ternyate di dalem kamera digital ntu (tepatnya di belakang lensa) ntu udeh ade filter IR yang dari sono nye (pabliknya) yang berguna untuk menangkal sinar infra merah masuk, ini karena sensor CCD nyang ada di dalem kamera digital bekerja sangat efektif dalam menyerap sinar Infra Merah.

nah singkat kate untuk ngedapetin foto IR, kita kudu ngebongkar kamera digital kite, buang IR blocker nya (orang bule bilang hot miror), trus ganti dah pake IR filter baru ( IR fileter disini maksudnye filter yang cuman ngelewatin sinar Infra merah doang).

nah kalo masih pengen baca aye kasih tau info atu lagi ini, pan dipasaran banyak tuh filter-filter IR nyang tinggal pasang aje... ngapain pake bongkar-bongkar selage... nah ini jawabannye, dalam kondisi standar kamera digital kita pan nge blok sinar infra red, trus dengan di tambahin filter IR di depan lensa, yang berfungsi cuman ngebolehin sinar IR yang bisa lewat berarti kita kudu pake ISO rendah + waktu exposure yang lama, bisa sampe 6 detikan deh, yang berarti pula kita kudu pake tripod untuk ngambil gambarnye, berbeda dengan cara kalo kita ganti hot miror di kamera kita dengan filter IR, gak butuh lagi tripod. mo tau gimane cara nguprek nye.. nihhhh..... :

ane cuman ngambil untuk nguprek kamera canon digital rebel (300D), mo tau cara nguprek kamera lo ? liat aje ndiri di website nye (kalo ada) , kalo takut bongkar-bongkar ndiri, ada kok yang udah profesional yang nerima jasa bongkar.

http://www.lifepixel.com/IR.htm

Disclaimer: This tutorial is made available for informational purposes only. Tampering with your camera will void your manufacturer's warranty. If you decide to perform the conversion you could damage your camera or be hurt or get killed from the high voltage present - you do so at your own risk, we are not responsible for camera damage or any harm you may suffer or any special or consequential damages.

Webmasters: Please do not hot link or copy content, instead you may link to this page like this: Infrared Conversion Instructions

You will need these tools & supplies to follow the Rebel XT infrared conversion tutorial:

- Our custom glass infrared filter to replace the hotmirror
- Soldering iron and desoldering wick or desoldering gun
- Black silicone adhesive /w syringe type dispenser
- Small philips type screwdriver
- Tweezers
- Canned air
- Lens cleaning solution & tissue
- Grounding strap /w current limit resistor

If you prefer not to risk damage to your camera, have us convert it for you here. It would be best to perform the conversion in a well lit area that is as clean and dust free as possible. Wearing a grounding strap will minimize the chance of zapping your camera with static and most likely rendering it dead.

Remove marked screws.

Remove marked screws.

Remove marked screws.

Remove marked screws and diopter adjustment knob.

Remove marked screws.

Remove marked screws.

Remove the front cover.

Flip over the rear LCD panel and disconnect marked cables.

Disconnect marked cables and remove the I/O port cover (blue arrow).

Push up the top cover and remove the black tape.

Disconnect marked connectors and screws.

Remove marked screw.

Remove marked screw.

Desolder the marked solder joints.

Lift out the metal shield.

Disconnect the marked ribbon cables and flip over PCB.

Remove marked screws and lift out the sensor assembly.

Paint a mark as shown with blue arrow to help with reassembly. Remove marked screws.

Remove marked screws.

Lift out the hot mirror filter assembly.

Gently peel off the double stick tape gasket.

Peel off the black mask.

Gently cut through the adhesive around the hot mirror filter.

Remove the hot mirror filter.

Place the infrared filter in position.

Apply black silicone seleant around the infrared filter to fix in position and seal out dust.

After adhesive is fully cured clean the ir filter with lens cleaner and tissue, blow off with canned air and reassemble everything by following the instructions backwards. Set a custom white balance per our instructions page and take some test shots to make sure there is no dust trapped between the sensor and infrared filter. If you find dust and find it objectionable disassemble the camera again, blow off the sensor with canned air (make sure only air and no liquid is coming out by purging and holding it upright) and re cleaning the infrared filter.

If you prefer not to risk damage to your camera, have us convert it for you here.

-Ray Of Light-

liburan 17-an di Kunduran-Blora, sempet-sempetin poto-poto mumpung cuaca bagus, cerah berawan ! cuman foto-fotonya banyak noise nya! mungkin karena menggunakan resolusi rendah! atau mungkin kameranya yang gak mumpuni... wekekekeke.. namanya juga amatiran :p

-Selamat Jalan Teman-

Innalillahi Wainnaillaihi Rojiun
Telah berpulang ke Rahmatullah salah seorang sahabat kami Dadang F. pada usia 27 Tahun, minggu, 10 Agustus 2008 sekitar pukul 1:30 WIB karena Sakit.Semoga Amalan beliau bisa menjadikan bekal dan penuntun menuju SurgaNya Allah SWT. Selamat jalan "Blewah" !

Foto-foto kenangan bersama Almarhum Dadang F. :

Hai jiwa yang tenang.Kembalilah kepada Tuhanmu dengan hati yang puas dan diridhai-Nya.Maka masuklah ke dalam jama'ah hamba-hamba-Ku. Dan masuklah ke dalam surga-Ku. ( QS Al Fajr : 27-30 )

Looks like

Infrared Effect - Adobe Photoshop

Buat yang gak punya filter IR!

Taken From : Tutorialelf (Online tutorial)

Infrared photography (also referred to as just IR) has been around for many years, but now with digital photography and Photoshop, creating the effect digitally is on the top of a lot of people's photography effects wish lists. There are some third-party plug-ins you can buy that will give you pretty decent IR effects, but you don't have to go that route. You can create some amazing infrared effects, both black and white and color, from right within Photoshop using the Channel Mixer (which is what we're going to do in this tutorial).

Before digital, you'd have to use special infrared film (Kodak made a popular brand of black-and-white infrared slide film) which had extended sensitivity to red colors that fall beyond what the naked eye (or traditional color film) could see. This IR film made blue skies look almost black, but it would keep the clouds looking white. It made green trees and grass look almost white, and if you used it on portraits, skin tones (eyes and teeth) took on an otherworldly feel, as well.

So, here are two different ways to achieve IR effects in Photoshop that people would swear were done with real IR film (which, by the way, is still made by a number of classic film manufacturers, including Kodak, who makes a High-Speed Infrared Black-and-White film, along with Ilford's SFX 200 IR film, and Maco's IR 820c film).

Step 1. OPEN THE PHOTO, THEN ADD A CHANNEL MIXER ADJUSTMENT LAYER

Open the photo you want to convert into an infrared image. The infrared look is often used with landscape photography (although you see it on portraits in some cases), so we're using a landscape photo here, with plenty of green grass, and some wisps of clouds in the sky. You'll use the Channel Mixer to create your infrared effect, so choose it from the Create New Adjustment Layer pop-up menu at the bottom of the Layers palettethe Channel Mixer dialog is shown in the next step.

Step 2. LEAVE THE RED AT +100%, INCREASE THE GREEN TO +200%, LOWER THE BLUE TO -200%

Generally, in landscape photos (like this one), we're trying to maximize the amount of green in the image, so we're going to pump up the green. Then we'll balance things out to where the values add up to 100% by subtracting from the Red and Blue channels. (Note: When we did our black-and-white conversions earlier, we weren't worried about adding up to 100%, but in infrared, if they don't add up to 100%, you'll have a color tint when you're done.) So, leave the Red at +100, for Green enter +200, and for Blue enter -200, but don't click OK yet.

Step 3. TURN ON THE MONOCHROME CHECKBOX, THEN LOWER THE CONSTANT TO PRESERVE HIGHLIGHTS.

Now, click the Monochrome checkbox at the lower-left corner of the dialog (as shown here) to convert the photo to black and white. If the whites in your image are blown out (they were in this image), lower the Constant slider until the whites aren't so blown out (I had to lower it to -34%). You can now click OK, and you've got a black-and-white infrared effect. You can stop at this point, or if you want a color infrared effect, go on to the next step (you'll want to continue on anyway, because we do a slightly different infrared technique after that).

Step 4. FOR A COLOR INFRARED EFFECT, CHANGE THE ADJUSTMENT LAYER'S BLEND MODE TO LIGHTEN

To bring the color effect into your black-and-white infrared, just change the blend mode of your Channel Mixer adjustment layer to either Lighten (as shown here) or Screen (if you choose Screen, lower the opacity until it looks right). As an optional step, you can add the white "glow" of classic film infrared photography by pressing X to set your Foreground color to white, flattening the image, then going under the Filter menu, under Distort, and choosing Diffuse Glow. Try setting the Graininess at 3, the Clear Amount to 15, then slowly drag the Glow Amount slider to the right until you get a slight glow without blowing out the highlights. Now, on to an alternate method.

Step 5. OPEN ANOTHER IMAGE

This next method works well when there's a nice rich sky with lots of blue, and with lots of clouds (like the photo shown here). This time we're going to use a couple of masks to get the traditional infrared effect, where the sky turns almost black but the clouds just pop out at you in stark white, and the tree leaves turn really white. It sounds bad, but it's a beautiful thing when done right.

Step 6. USE THE CHANNEL MIXER USING THE SAME VALUES AS BEFORE, BUT THIS BLOWS OUT THE HIGHLIGHTS

Create a Channel Mixer adjustment layer again, turn on the Monochrome checkbox, and enter these values: leave the Red at +100, increase the Green to +200, then decrease the Blue to -200 to create that black sky and white trees and ground, but don't click OK yet. Now, although the sky, clouds, and trees look great, the ground is completely and totally blown out. So, we're going to have to do a little layer masking to create the perfect infrared photo. This is the ideal photo to do this on because you'll run across plenty of images where you'll need to do the sky separately from the ground to keep detail in both areas.

Step 7. LOWER THE CONSTANT UNTIL THE GROUND DETAIL REAPPEARS, EVEN THOUGH THE SKY IS NOW TOO DARK

We're now going to temporarily sacrifice the sky to get the ground back, so drag the Constant slider to the left until the detail in the ground reappears (as shown here, where I had to lower the Constant to -60% to get the ground back), then click OK.

Step 8. WITH BLACK AS YOUR FOREGROUND COLOR, PAINT OVER THE SKY TO CONCEAL JUST THE SKY

Press X to set black as your Foreground color, then get the Brush tool (B), choose a large soft-edged brush, and start painting over the sky (don't worryyou're painting on the mask, not the photo itself). Paint over the entire sky, and as you paint in black, those infrared areas become hidden (concealed) from view, leaving just the ground still having the infrared effect applied. Your mask's thumbnail (in the Layers palette) will look like the one shown herewith black over the sky, and white revealing the Channel Mixer edits you made in the previous step.

Step 9. DUPLICATE THE ADJUSTMENT LAYER, THEN INVERT THE MASK BY PRESSING COMMAND-I (PC: CONTROL-I)

Now, duplicate the Channel Mixer adjustment layer (the quickest way is to just press Command-J [PC: Control-J]). Press Command-I (PC: Control-I) to Invert the mask, so now the black part (the concealed part) is at the bottom, and the white area (the part of the area to be revealed) is on top. Of course, at this point, all it looks like is that we brought the really dark sky from two steps ago right back, but we're about to fix that.

Step 10. REOPEN THE CHANNEL MIXER AND RAISE THE CONSTANT BACK UP TO 0%

In the Layers palette, double-click directly on the Channel Mixer adjustment layer's thumbnail to bring up the Channel Mixer dialog with the settings you last input. The Constant slider will still be set at -60%, so all you have to do (to bring back the nice sky again) is raise that back up to 0% to get the effect you see here, which combines the nice sky with the good detail ground. We used two different masks: (1) to create the good ground and cover the sky, and (2) to hide the ground and reveal the good sky. If you see any green along the ground where the two masks meet (like you do here), press X to set your Foreground color to white and just paint it away.

Step 11. IF ANY COLOR AREAS SHOW, PAINT OVER THEM IN WHITE TO COMPLETE THE EFFECT (AS SHOWN HERE)

Here's the final image, with that green painted away by painting on the mask in white. It combines the good sky and the good ground, which together create one heck of a realistic infrared black-and-white effect.